Goblin Valley State Park
Thousands of squat sandstone goblins in an empty desert basin — certified 2016, and rated Bortle 2 by the NPS Dark Sky Team.
San Rafael Desert · San Rafael Swell · Castle Valley
State Park 9,917 acres 5,400 ft high point Est. 1964 Utah Division of State Parks Dark Sky Park
Overview
Goblin Valley is a basin full of squat, mushroom-headed hoodoos eroded out of Entrada Sandstone — a few thousand of them, standing about head height, in an otherwise empty bowl in the San Rafael Desert. You are allowed to walk among them, which is unusual and is most of the appeal. What is less well known is the sky. In June 2015 Bob Meadows of the Park Service's Dark Sky Team set up at the observation point and found what he described as one of the darkest skies on record — a Bortle 2, with meter readings of 21.80. There is essentially nothing out here. The only light dome normally visible from the park is not a city at all: it is the Hunter and Huntington coal-fired power plants, fifty miles north in Castle Valley.
Getting in
When to go
Best: Apr, May, Oct
Spring and autumn. Summer is dangerously hot and shadeless; winter is cold, clear and empty.
Safety & conditions
Activities
Hiking
You walk among the goblins — there are no trails in the valley itself, which is the point. Longer routes to the Goblin's Lair and out to Wild Horse.
Season: Spring and autumn; summer is brutally hot.
Stay in the washes and off the crust.
Stargazing
Certified 2016. The NPS Dark Sky Team rated it Bortle 2 and called it one of the darkest skies on record, reading 21.80 at the observation point. The only light dome is a pair of coal plants fifty miles north.
Season: Year-round; new-moon windows best. Autumn and spring nights are the most comfortable.
Photographing the Milky Way over the goblins is the shot. Bring a red light and stay out of the campground glow.
Camping
A small campground and a few yurts, right beside the valley.
Regs: Reservable through Utah State Parks; it fills.
Canyoneering
Little Wild Horse and Bell canyons — the classic beginner slot loop — are just outside the park boundary on BLM land.
Season: Spring and autumn. Flash-flood risk with the monsoon.
Night Sky
Dark Sky Park Certified 2016 Bortle 2 21.80 mag/arcsec² across 1 site
Bortle 2, and the Park Service's own observer called it 'one of the darkest skies on record.' What is remarkable is what makes the only light dome. It is not a town: 'The Hunter and Huntington Power Plants, located approximately fifty miles north in the Castle Valley, create what is normally the only light dome visible from the park.' Two coal-fired power stations, half a hundred miles off, are the brightest thing on Goblin Valley's horizon. Faint light from Green River and Moab shows to the east and northeast, and Hanksville to the south. What else moves it: moon, and — genuinely — the campground, on a busy night.
What the sky does here
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Typical
Bortle Class 2: The Wilderness Has Its Own Light
Under a Class 2 sky, darkness is nearly natural yet the landscape remains emotionally legible. The Milky Way becomes architecture, still water can carry a second sky, and the night feels less alien than complete.
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Only when
Bortle Class 3: Civilization Beyond the Rim
Looking north toward Castle Valley, where the Hunter and Huntington coal plants put up the only light dome the park normally sees — or on a busy night in the campground, which the park's own survey admits was bright enough to affect its readings.
Geology
The goblins are Entrada Sandstone: alternating harder and softer beds, weathered so the soft layers undercut and the hard caps stay on. That is why they are all roughly the same height and all wear hats.
Province: Colorado Plateau — San Rafael Swell / San Rafael Desert
Rock types: sandstone, siltstone
Major formations
Ecology
Biomes: Colorado Plateau desert shrubland; sand desert
Flora
- Mormon tea
- saltbush
- cryptobiotic soil crust between the goblins
Fauna
- kit fox
- kangaroo rat
- midget faded rattlesnake
- burrowing owl
Very dry, very open. The crust between the formations is alive and takes decades to recover — stay in the washes.
History
The San Rafael Desert lies within the ancestral homeland of the Ute and Southern Paiute peoples, whose connection to this country continues. Ranchers and prospectors knew the valley for decades before it was protected; it became a Utah state park in 1964.
Modern issues
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Coal plants on the horizon
Status: ongoing
The Hunter and Huntington power stations, fifty miles north in Castle Valley, make the only light dome normally visible from the park.
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The park's own campground
Status: acknowledged
The park's certification application concedes that campground lighting may have affected its own March 2015 sky-quality readings.