Labyrinth Canyon

• 8 steaks, 12-14 oz each ribeye steaks, patted dry, salted 30 minutes before cooking
• 6 large, mixed colors bell peppers, halved and seeded
• 4 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch rounds
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• to taste flaky salt
• to taste black pepper
• 4 limes, halved
• 1 head garlic, whole cloves, smashed
• 4 tbsp butter

1. Light charcoal in the fire pan 30 minutes before cooking. Let it ash over to medium-high heat. While it heats, pull steaks from the cooler and salt generously on both sides.
2. Set the grill grate over the coals. Toss pepper halves and onion rounds with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place cut-side down on the grate. They'll need 10-12 minutes total, turning once.
3. Heat the cast iron skillet directly on the coals or grate until it's smoking. Add a thin film of oil.
4. Sear steaks 3-4 minutes per side for medium-rare, depending on thickness. In the last minute, add butter and smashed garlic to the pan and baste the steaks.
5. Rest steaks on cutting board for 5 minutes. Finish peppers and onions — they should be soft and charred at the edges.
6. Serve steaks whole or sliced against the grain. Pile peppers and onions alongside. Finish with flaky salt and a squeeze of lime.

Salt the steaks before you set up camp — by the time you've rigged the kitchen, they've had their 30 minutes. The cast iron needs to be genuinely smoking before the first steak goes in. If it's windy, position the fire pan so you're shielded and the coals stay hot. In desert heat above 100F, pull steaks from the cooler only 10 minutes ahead — they'll come to temp fast. Keep a spray bottle of water nearby for flare-ups from the dripping fat.

• 5 lbs (about 20 thighs) boneless skinless chicken thighs, pre-marinated and frozen flat in bags
• 1/2 cup (about 6 limes) lime juice, juiced at home for marinade
• 2 tbsp cumin
• 8 cloves garlic, minced into marinade at home
• 2 cans (7 oz each) roasted green chiles, one can in marinade, one for topping
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tbsp salt
• 24 large (8-inch) flour tortillas
• 1 small head green cabbage, shredded thin at home, bagged
• 8 oz cotija cheese, crumbled
• 4 limes, quartered for serving
• 1 bottle hot sauce
• 1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped

1. Light charcoal in the fire pan 25 minutes before cooking. Pull the marinated chicken bags from the cooler — they should be thawed and cold, not frozen.
2. When coals are ashed over, set the grill grate and oil it lightly. Lay chicken thighs flat on the grate. Grill 5-6 minutes per side until charred and cooked through (165F internal, but thighs are forgiving).
3. While chicken grills, warm tortillas directly on the grate edge — 20 seconds per side, just enough to get them pliable and lightly charred. Stack and wrap in a clean towel to keep warm.
4. Rest grilled chicken for 3 minutes, then slice against the grain into strips.
5. Set up the assembly line: sliced chicken, warm tortillas, shredded cabbage, cotija, green chiles, lime wedges, and hot sauce. Let people build their own.
6. For the slaw, toss shredded cabbage with a squeeze of lime juice and a pinch of salt right before serving.

The key to this recipe is the frozen marinade bags. They keep the cooler cold on day 1 and produce perfectly thawed, deeply marinated chicken by day 2. If it's extremely hot (105F+), check the bags on the morning of day 2 — they may thaw faster than expected. Don't skip the towel for the tortillas; they go from warm and pliable to stiff and cracked in two minutes of desert air. If it's windy, the charcoal will burn hot and fast — watch for flare-ups from the marinade dripping.

• 2 gallon bags (about 6 cups total) pre-made meat sauce, made at home, frozen flat in gallon bags
• 1 box (12 oz) no-boil lasagna noodles
• 15 oz container ricotta cheese
• 1 lb mozzarella cheese, sliced or shredded
• 4 oz parmesan cheese, grated at home
• 1 egg, mixed into ricotta
• 1 tbsp Italian seasoning
• to taste salt
• 1 tsp red pepper flakes
• 1 tbsp olive oil

1. Light charcoal 30 minutes ahead. You'll need about 24 briquettes — 8 underneath and 16 on top for even baking at roughly 375F. While coals ash over, prep the layers.
2. Oil the inside of the Dutch oven. Mix the ricotta with the egg (if using), Italian seasoning, and a pinch of salt in a bowl or bag.
3. Build the layers: Start with a thin spread of meat sauce on the bottom. Lay no-boil noodles over it, breaking to fit. Spread half the ricotta mixture. Add a layer of meat sauce. Repeat: noodles, remaining ricotta, meat sauce. Top with mozzarella and parmesan.
4. Set the Dutch oven on the bottom coals. Place the lid on and arrange remaining coals on top. The ratio matters — more heat on top prevents burning the bottom.
5. Cook 40-45 minutes without opening the lid. Resist the urge. After 40 minutes, crack the lid to check — the cheese should be bubbling and starting to brown.
6. Remove from coals and let rest 10 minutes before cutting. It needs this time to set or it'll be soup.

The coal ratio is everything. Too many coals on the bottom and you'll scorch it. Roughly 1/3 underneath, 2/3 on top. In windy conditions, position the fire pan in a sheltered spot — wind cools coals unevenly and you'll get hot spots. If you're cooking on sand, clear the area thoroughly first; sand gets everywhere when the wind picks up, and nothing ruins lasagna like grit. Bring a lid lifter or channel-lock pliers — the lid will be 400 degrees. Start the charcoal earlier than you think. Dutch oven cooking always takes longer than expected, and hungry river people get impatient.

• 3 cans (13.5 oz each) canned coconut milk
• 4 tbsp Thai red curry paste
• 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced into coins at home
• 1 lb snap peas, strings removed
• 3 large bell peppers, sliced into strips at home
• 4 cups dry jasmine rice
• 3 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• 3 lime, juiced at serving
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2-inch knob fresh ginger, minced or grated
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tbsp dried basil

1. Start the rice first. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a pot on the propane stove. Add rice, stir once, cover, and reduce to low. Set a timer for 15 minutes. Do not touch it.
2. In a large pot or deep skillet, heat vegetable oil over medium-high on the second burner (or wait for the rice). Fry the curry paste and garlic for 60 seconds until fragrant — it should sizzle and darken slightly.
3. Add coconut milk and stir to combine with the paste. Bring to a gentle simmer. Add fish sauce and brown sugar. Taste and adjust.
4. Add carrots first — they take the longest. Simmer 5 minutes. Then add bell peppers and snap peas. Cook 5-7 more minutes until vegetables are crisp-tender. Don't overcook them.
5. Kill the heat. Squeeze in the lime juice and stir. Taste once more — it should be rich, slightly sweet, salty, sour, and hot. Adjust any element that's missing.
6. Serve over rice in bowls. Finish with a pinch of dried basil if you have it.

This recipe is almost wind-proof because it's all in a pot with a lid. The propane stove handles it better than charcoal. The key mistake people make is adding all the vegetables at once — carrots need a head start or they'll be raw while the snap peas turn to mush. If you only have one burner, cook the rice first, set it aside covered (it holds heat for 20 minutes), then make the curry. In cold weather (below 50F), the coconut milk may have solidified in the can — it melts fast once heated, but give it an extra minute.

• 4 dough balls (about 10 oz each) pizza dough, made at home, bagged individually, cold-fermented
• 1 can (28 oz) canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand or with a spoon in the can
• 8 oz hard salami, sliced thin
• 1 cup kalamata olives, drained, halved
• 6 oz wedge parmesan cheese, grated in camp with a knife or microplane
• 12 oz mozzarella cheese, torn or sliced
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin
• 1 tsp red pepper flakes
• 1 tsp dried oregano

1. Light charcoal 30 minutes ahead. You want medium heat — fewer coals than a sear, more than a warm. About 15-18 briquettes spread evenly. While coals ash over, pull a dough ball from the cooler and let it warm for 10 minutes.
2. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the cast iron skillet and spread it across the bottom and up the sides. Press the dough ball into the skillet with your fingers, stretching to the edges. Don't worry about perfect shape — the pan is the shape.
3. Spoon crushed San Marzanos over the dough, leaving a half-inch edge. Top with salami, olives, sliced garlic, and cheese. Don't overload it — less is more.
4. Set the skillet on the grill grate over coals. Put the lid on. Cook 10-12 minutes. The bottom will start to smell toasty and the edges will pull away from the pan slightly when it's done.
5. Check the bottom by lifting an edge with a spatula — it should be deep golden and crisp. If the top needs more heat, pile a few coals on the lid for the last 2-3 minutes.
6. Slide the pizza out of the skillet onto a cutting board. Slice and serve immediately. Re-oil the skillet and start the next one — the pan is already hot.

The oil in the skillet is non-negotiable. It prevents sticking and creates the fried-bottom texture that makes this work. Don't skimp. The dough will fight you if it's cold — let it warm up for 10 minutes before pressing. If it springs back, let it rest 5 more minutes. People will crowd the kitchen for pizza night, which is great for morale but means you need a system: one person on dough, one on toppings, one managing coals. Batch cooking takes an hour — serve each pizza as it comes out instead of waiting for all four. In wind, the coals cool quickly between pizzas. Keep extra lit coals ready.

• 2 lbs dried spaghetti or penne
• 2 cans (28 oz each) canned crushed tomatoes
• 1 cup kalamata olives, drained, roughly chopped
• 3 tbsp capers, drained
• 1 tin (2 oz) anchovies, chopped
• 6 cloves garlic, sliced thin
• 1 tsp red pepper flakes
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• to taste salt
• 4 oz wedge parmesan cheese, grated

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil on the propane stove. Salt it heavily — it should taste like the ocean. Use filtered river water if your supply is running low.
2. While water heats, start the sauce. Heat olive oil in a second pot over medium. Add sliced garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook 60 seconds until garlic is fragrant but not brown.
3. Add anchovies to the oil and stir. They'll break apart and dissolve in about a minute. Add olives and capers, stir another 30 seconds.
4. Pour in crushed tomatoes. Add oregano. Stir, bring to a simmer, and let it cook 10-15 minutes while the pasta boils. The sauce should thicken slightly.
5. Cook pasta to just under al dente — it'll finish in the sauce. Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining. Add drained pasta to the sauce pot, toss to coat, and add splashes of pasta water to loosen if needed.
6. Serve in bowls with grated parmesan if you have it. A drizzle of olive oil on top finishes it.

This is the most reliable recipe in the entire trip menu. Nothing can go wrong with the ingredients — they're all shelf-stable and nearly indestructible. The one thing to watch is the pasta water. At elevation (Desolation Canyon is around 4,500 feet at put-in), water boils at a lower temperature and pasta takes slightly longer to cook. Taste it. On a single-burner stove, boil the pasta first, drain it, then make the sauce in the same pot to save fuel. The olives and capers provide so much salt that you probably won't need to add any to the sauce — taste first.

Two coolers, sorted by how often they open: one for drinks and the day's food, one kept shut for later in the trip.

Folding table, two-burner propane stove, cast iron skillet, Dutch oven, and a large pot. The Dutch oven is the single most versatile piece.